MAVERICK - The kit is basically a redesigned heli using a montage of 550e, 600e & 700N mechanics & components.


What you will find in your kit

  1. Pair (2) front new complete frame sections in 2.3mm thick G10/FR4
  2. Pair (2) front frame reinforcing sections in 2.3mm thick G10/FR4
  3. Pair (2) frame brace sections in 2.3mm thick G10/FR4
  4. Pair (2) tank offset holder frames G10/FR4 or Aluminium
  5. Engine heat deflector in 2.3mm thick G10/FR4
  6. Pair (2) bearing block spacers in 6.5mm thick G10/FR4
  7. Top engine mount in 6.5mm thick G10/FR4
  8. Bottom engine mount/plate in 6.5mm thick G10/FR4
  9. 4 off M5*16mm grade 12.9 countersunk bolts/screw (Top Engine mount)
  10. 4 off M5*25mm grade 12.9 socket cap bolts/screw (Engine base plate)
  11. 1 off M6*12mm 8.8 grade bolt with 12mm flat washer  & spring washer (engine shaft)
  12. 2 off M4*10mm grade 12.9 socket cap bolts/screw (clutch to clutch housing)
  13. 8 components M3*16mm grade 12.9 socket cap head bolts/screw
  14. 6 components M3*25mm grade 12.9 grade socket head bolts/screw (base plate to landing strut fitting)
  15. 8 components M3*10mm O.D. washers (landing strut face)
  16. 14 components of M3 locknuts zink plated
  17. 8 components M3 fuel resistant rubber isolation washers.
  18. Precision Cnc high tensile 17T pinion
  19. Precision Cnc T6 aluminium clutch shaft engine adaptor
  20. Precision Cnc T6 aluminium starter shaft holder
  21. Precision Cnc T6 aluminium clutch holder double bearing block
  22. 8 precision Cnc T6 aluminium frame mounting brackets
  23. Two 6800ZZ bearings 10ID*19OD*5mm thick
  24. One 685ZZ bearing 5ID*11OD*5mm thick

Additional items required

For $15us you cant go wrong with a metal upgrade boom holder


Lynx thrusted bearing blocks  $20

or OMG Thrusted bearing Blocks available from HK

Aluminum & carbon anti-rotational bracket for $6.50 


Metal trays that provide additional frame stiffness than align plastic alternative, two required for $3.50


Substitute the electric engine mount in the build with frame spacers H7NB008XXW 700N DFC Canopy Support Set. (or frame spacers as per build page)

KDE 700 main gear adapter  $35

Microheli M1 spur main gears & pinions

Starter shaft $6.50

clutch bell $12.95

Align Head

Trex 600E/600N main shaft code H60159  (longer shaft for third bearing support) & addition third bearing block or Align part No. H6NH002XXW 600N DFC Main Shaft Set.
Trex700N canopy
Trex 700N Pro fuel tank & any generic tank guard material or Trex 700 tank guard. 
Trex 700 or TZ Frenzy landing gear.
Additional M3 frame screws may be required, it is recommended that you replace existing button head bolts in kits with quality 12.9 cap head bolts. 


Maverick - capable - affordable & adaptable at a fraction of the price of most other gassers. Best suited to a G240RC this heli kit has been popular with beginners due to both its initial low build cost & replacement part - crash repair cost. Scale builders have also taken advantage of its benefits, compact size & low weight. The kit is basically a redesigned heli using a montage of 550e, 600e & 700N mechanics & components designed on 47mm frame width components.

You don’t necessarily have to have a donor kit but a Trex550e is a popular choice as a donor. You can customize to your liking as parts are quite cheap & readily available for the 600e & 550 including 3rd party upgrades & DCF heads. If your keeping the 600 platform the G240RC or G230RC engine to is a good choice. 550e needs to be stretched to a 600.

Design issues addressed;

  • Introduction of dual bearing clutch/drive support.
  • Additional support to main shaft due to high engine torque. 3rd bearing block.
  • CG effect of extra mass & new distribution of mass to equalise CG in all modes of flight.
  • Additional frame bracing.
  • Engine mounting & harmonic vibration. Experimenting with various thicknesses of material & coming up with a good overall balance.
  • Countless prototypes, builds & testing, including clones & their suitability.

In brief;

  • Third bearing main shaft holder position below autorotation gear.
  • Direct servo to swash drive eliminating bell cranks simplifying setup & providing clean quick crisp response.
  • Well balanced & stable flight characteristics with all modes of flight.
  • Double bearing clutch shaft holder eliminates slop & flex.
  • The starter shaft system is retained for those wishing to utilize & lighten.
  • Use of the Lynx LX0135 RevB gas clutch, Trex 700N clutch bell & starter shaft for the conversions.
  • Use of the stronger Module 1 Trek 700 main gear to eliminate gear strips.
  • 17T M1 high tensile pinion resulting in a 6.77 gear ratio.(Frame set also supports 14T pinion for 800 aerial filming rigs)
  • Advantage of one of the most cost effective & readily available mechanics & components with the ability to individually customize.
  • 6.5mm thick G10 engine mounting plates in x,y plane to reduce vibration to electronics.
  • 2.3mm thick G10 new side frames (carbon upgrades will be available in the future)
  • Stiff, strong & lightweight design.
  • A great introduction & 3D gasser trainer that won't cost a small fortune for crash replacement parts, a machine that can be easily upgraded & customized to all flying levels & needs.
  • Easily converts into a 700 size machine with great performance. (two sized machines in the one kit)
  • One of the most versatile, cost effective & adaptable gasser conversion kits on the market.

Frame assembly

Frame sections

The above photo right shows one side of the new frame section with the location of frame components & spacers. The build process is very basic & straight forward, with only a few pointers to mention.

  1. Position of clutch spacers located internally as shown
  2. Position of front frame reinforcements located internally as shown
  3. New position of 600e electronics tray (metal)
  4. Acquire additional battery tray then position as shown. Mounting position accepts either 550 or 600 battery tray hole positions. The lower battery tray can be removed for spark plug access & is best to leave off at this stage until all electronics are installed.
  5. The Trex550 anti rotation bracket is used. The reason for using this bracket is it provides stiffer bracing & additional electronics mounting positions. Best to install after servo & electronics mounting.
  6. Position of T6 aluminium frame mounting brackets.
  7. Pitch & aileron servos may be installed prior to uniting the two frame halves.
  8. Make sure the main shaft bearing blocks are installed the correct way so bearings are locked in by the one way bearing & collar lock & cannot slide out of the casings ,third bearing block is installed with smaller diameter of the housing block facing down. Thrust bearing block upgrades & 550 bearing blocks may also be used. Thrust bearing blocks are a good choice for the two upper most bearing blocks.

Front spacers between the front reinforcement plates are Part No. AGNH600632 (aluminium hexagonal bolt 600/600CF spacers). Epoxy a spacer washer M3*0.5mm thick to one side of the spacers only.

There are 5 alternatives for the rear frame spacers. Align part AGNH60187 (two in a pack) Frame mounting spacers 47mm long, Align part AGNHN6018 Aluminium Hexagonal Bolt (600N) filed/sanded/milled down either end to achieve 47mm length. Hex spacers in the hk600 tail boom block are exactly 47mm wide whist in the hk550 tail boom block they are 46mm wide & two 0.5mm thick M3 washers will need to be glued either end of the spacer (easier to install if glued). For under $5 both HK alternatives are quite a good deal as you not only get the spacers required but also have a spare boom block. 
Miguel76x from spain has also pointed out that he used Hex mounting bolts from the Trex700N DCF Tail boom box which are exactly 47mm. 


700N DFC Tail Boom Mount H7NT001XXW

Clutch assembly

Clutch bell parts & assembly

1. Parts for this stage; Trex 700n clutch bell, supplied 17 tooth M1 pinion, Starter shaft. T6 aluminium clutch holder double bearing block. New starter shaft bearing holder & supplied bearings.

2. Screw with thread locker the 700n clutch bell to the pinion, do not over tighten. The direction of the thread is self tightening. 

3. Slide the clutch holder with the new bearings installed onto the pinion (you may smear the smallest amount of the weakest locktite on surface of bearing contacting housing if you wish. Bearing creep will not result if you omit) then fit bearing in housing with finger force. The housing is installed with the curved edge of the housing facing up towards the rotor (fillet face up).

The Pinion as well as the original Align Pinion is designed as a sliding fit for ease of assembly. Pinion shaft & internal bearing ring is to be adhesive fixed. This is usually done with mild-mid strength thread locker, obviously don’t get it all over the bearing.  Use high strength thread locker on the pinion retainer nut. The pinion, internal bearing rings & retainer nut should all then all rotate at the same rpm as one unit. If thread locker/bearing retainer is omitted in the assembly, this is when you will notice a groove on the pinion shaft & wear of the retainer nut due to the internal bearing ring being free to rotate on the pinion shaft at a slower rpm. 

4. Install the supplied bearing 5ID * 11OD * 5mm into starter shaft bearing holder as shown, then screw on the new starter shaft bearing holder in place with high strength thread locker, do not over tighten & allow at least 24 hours to dry. If either an adequate amount of high strength locktight is not used or the locktight is not allowed to cure thread damage can result over a long period of time. It is also good practice to allow a thin shimming washer between the bearing & holder.

Now slide starter shaft into position & install & tighten the hex starter coupling. (Comes with starter shaft.)


6. Now slide entire stack into position between spacers & lightly tighten.

Please note: Align has changed the thickness of the clutch liner & it will now need to be sanded down evenly down to approximately 1.15mm in thickness or untill there is a snug & not to loose fit of the lynx clutch against the liner.

Now install the 600e engine mount at position shown with the cooling slots facing down, and then side frame stiffening plates which can also be mounted with 2-3mm washers/spacers for easier clutch stack removal. Install the front canopy mounts at the topmost spare hole of the front frame stiffener & frame as shown. Alternatively use two space frame spacers instead of the Engine Mount.


Trex 600E/600N main shaft code H60159  (longer shaft for third bearing support) & addition third bearing block or Align part No. H6NH002XXW 600N DFC Main Shaft Set.

ALIGN T-Rex 700 Clutch Bell Set

ALIGN T-Rex 700 Clutch/Start Shaft Set 

700N DFC Fuel Tank

Aluminium One-Way Bearing Holder w/Bearing Trex 550/600 for Trex 700 main gear

CNC Main Drive Gear M1 115T

Thrusted Bearing blocks 

Lynx Heli T Rex 700 Heavy Duty GAS Clutch Set

Engine Mount Assembly

Either the Frenzy (top row) Vibe 90 or Trex 700 landing gear (bottom row) can be used. Height clearance is similar, but the Frenzy landing gear has a wider & longer stance than the Trex 700 landing gear. If using the Trex 700 struts mark new positioning holes 38mm either side of centre & drill new M3 holes. Angle of Trex stuts need to face each other as shown. Optional centre hole fix to base plate if desired of both types.

Below - Rotate the pull start assembly on the engine so that the pull chord handle is located towards the carb side.
Remove the four bolts of the fan shroud housing, place the bottom plate/engine mount over & tighten the plate to the engine with the 4 M3*25mm socket cap head bolts supplied reusing the existing washers & also applying thread locker. Bottom plate will not have a notch cut out for the exhaust if using the stock can muffler large x port spacer is recommended.
On most engines one M5 washer 5mmID*10mmOD*1mm must be installed as shown in the photograph below positioned between the metal housing & new G10 plate (location below the carburettor). This is because the section is 1mm thinner than the other 3 sections, measure the thickness of the black fan shroud at all four mounting locations with vernier callipers for confirmation.


Place the top engine mounting plate over the engine shaft in the position shown with the narrow section facing away from the cylinder head & towards the tail (above right). The countersunk screw section of the plate must be installed facing up.
Tighten the plate to the engine using the 4 M5*20mm countersunk bolts/screws supplied with thread locker. Install the two T6 aluminium frame mounting brackets as show with the flat face outwards. Use the supplied M3*16mm socket head bolts/screws & locknuts for this step. Install the heat deflector plate, you may find it easier to loosen the two shroud screws on the opposite side.

Now install the clutch adaptor onto the engine shaft. Inspect the edge of the engine shaft for burrs or irregularities & gently file or sand smooth if found. Remove your spark plug & install engine stopper tool or place a few inches of non fraying chord through the spark plug hole making sure that the piston stroke is past exhaust & inlet positions, then tighten adaptor & remove tool or chord, then reinstall park plug.

Above right photo shows the removal of clutch adaptor using two long m4 socket head bolts & a scrap piece of any flat thin plate/plastic. Tighten both bolts at equal rates. Install the Lynx LX0135 RevB gas clutch onto the clutch adaptor & tighten using thread locker.

You are now ready to unite the engine base frame with the main frame section. Remove the spark plug, align clutch bearing & starter shaft then slide down into position. Install fixing lock nuts & bolts to all positions with landing strut adaptors. Snug tighten so engine is still free to slide, finding appropriate meshing of pinion & main gears, then tighten mount bolts. Use the M3 washers supplied to face the landing strut bracket as shown on the bottom engine mount/plate. In all there are eight engine mounting bolts. I also personally use stainless steel bolts at these points as they have more elasticity & less tensile strength. In the event of a crash I would rather replace bolts & brackets than a frame section.

Fuel system

The Trex 700N tank is held in position with tank offset holder frames with the tank guard material installed on these offset frames. This fixing method produces the least foaming within the tank. Another option is to use the 750cc FC brand gasoline tank with tank guard material at contact points only, then strapped down tight with two large 450mm nylon cable ties to the bottom frame spacers. The Trex 700N tank may also be fitted direct to the main frames with the tank guard material installed without the use of the isolating offset frames

  1. Gasoline purpose bungs & fuel tube will be required. Holes will need to be enlarged to suit the bungs being used. The felt bung supplied with your engine works well.
  2. Bend the return line tube up & fit a piece of tubing so it touches the roof of the tank.
  3. Pickup line should be long enough to reach at all places within the tank (use the softer fuel tube that was supplied with your engine as the pickup line). Centre hole in the tank will need to be plugged with a gasoline bung.
  4. Install tank guard material on the tank holder frames leaving section around bung free on the right side as shown.
  5. Run a bit of soapy water over all surfaces & slide tank frame over bung & vent, into position.
  6. Install tank holders to main frames with 2 vibration isolation M3 washers at each fixing point as shown. Position the locknut outwards for visual inspection.

An alternative to the rubber washers is to use M3 bolts & lock nuts as stiff offsets. Makes installation & removal a lot easier & still has the same isolation (effect below left). Thrusted bearing blocks are a good alternative to the standard bearing blocks in a gasser environment (below right).

Above left: Location of Fuel lines & position of front canopy Mounts, the carb linkage extesion shown is from a spare 450 frame spacer & a linkage ball. Above right: Position of rear canopy mounts. For the canopy mounts use two sets of the original 600e rear canopy mounts or modify some spare frame spacers, TZ90V2 frame spacers also work well with no modification. The positions shown will align with existing mounting holes in Trex 700N Canopy.

Above left: Position of component mounting
Above right: Elongate existing ventilation slot underside of canopy for improved air circulation & fitting.

Below left: Position of boom struts
Below right: Slender light profile, alternative double rear strut for autorotation practice.

Dry Flying weight achievable 5.4 kg as a 600 (standard plastic filter, can muffler, belt drive & carbon blades)
Fully blinged out & 700 stretch with 3 cell Lipo 5.9-6.0 kg.
Following link provides key information for a 700 stretch
The standard Trex 700N linkage will fit with no modification for the 700 stretch, the 600 linkage in the 600 build will need to be extended.
If you have difficulty finding 700 blades with a 4mm hole root (many will be 5mm) you can easily make a spacer bushing from 5mm to 4mm buy cutting 5mm OD brass fuel tube. You may need to sand the tube a little before cutting for ease of fitting. I like to epoxy in place.

For additional support & stiffness , a 3D stiffening plate has been developed & available in the download section for for those with the ability to make there own. Placement over the front cyclic servos as show in the photo below. The ideal material is 2mm thick aluminum plate. Available as a pdf & dxf downloads. It provides additional bracing of clutch, main frames & cyclic servos.

A note on the HK600GT & other Clones.

Can the hk600 be used safely with Maverick kit; like any build with a careful & conscious builder YES & there is still going to be a requirement to purchase original align parts to complete the build therefore a contribution is made towards the OEM (Align) & supporting third party developers.

OEM (Align) parts or third party performance parts will need to be purchased for swash plate replacement (due to excessive slop & construction quality), tail pitch slider, plastic tail drive gears due to warping & quality. I would also recommend using Align Feathering shaft & good quality ball links from servos to swash plate. Machining overall on the kit I received was good, have seen better & have seen worse. Some bearings produced slop after only 7 tanks so I would recommend whilst in the build to replace entire kit bearings with a good quality set. With these small modifications this is quite a capable machine that will fly safely especially as a trainer/sports flyer. The constant loading & unloading of forces during 3D flight will accelerate metal fatigue, so to will a crash. I am not here to argue or validate clones; my concern is that someone does not kill themselves or someone else. The component that has failed most during flight has been the Microheli main gear that I used (still had a few pre align M1 release). These gears under my testing are not adequate for use & has now been documented by many others, the composite of the plastic is prone to failure. Failures have occurred as early as two tanks whilst tuning with pitch pumps & I personal would recommend the original Align M1 CNC 115T gear. One thing you may come across the build is that you will need to adjust the press fit of the one way bearing to adjust clearance of main gear & tail belt drive pulley (gears) & moulding of boom block may be a little off just below autorotation gear, don't force it in just file out the hole in the frame to suit.

Original Align kits & components have the same potential to kill someone or fail in the hands of an inexperienced or lazy builder. A T6 or T7 component that has experienced a crash may not have the same tensile strength due to hidden fratures & be rated well below a new clone replacement part (be wary of purchasing second hand critical component parts). All components need to be stripped checked & locktite applied. Hidden fractures & fatigue points can develop in any part due to a crash or excessive wear. If a part has been bent do not try to straighten or repair it you must replace. Fly a gasser heli as if any component has the potential to fail at any point in time & you & others around you will be safe. I have had top quality $150 servo fail during flight. Backyard flying & testing is not recommended (unless you have a few acres)
The G230-240 engines work very well in a 600 or 700 format , larger bore engines are suited towards a larger blade diameter (700 - 800 stretch) with heavier pay loads or a heavier heli mass to disperse the additional torque. The Maverick is a very light gasser that performs exceptionally well on 600 blades for a gasser. The G290RC I have found to produce excess vibration in standard form. Lightened piston modification is strongly recomended for G290RC.                                                                                                                 

MAVERICK 600HK Achievable 5.25kg dry weight